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June 26, 2025

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Retinol skincare products suddenly seem to be everywhere, promising clear, radiant and “youthful” skin.

But what’s the science behind these claims? And are there any risks?

You may have also heard retinol can increase your risk of sunburn and even make acne worse.

For some people, retinol may help reduce the appearance of fine lines. But it won’t be suitable for everyone. Here’s what you need to know.

What is retinol?

Retinol is part of a family of chemical compounds called retinoids. These are derived from or related to Vitamin A, a nutrient essential for healthy skin, vision and immune function.

All retinoids work because enzymes in our skin convert them into their “active” form, retinoic acid.

You can buy retinol in creams and other topical products over the counter.

These are often promoted as “anti-ageing” because retinol can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and even out skin tone (for example, sun spots or acne scars).

It also has an exfoliating effect, meaning it can help unclog pores.

Stronger retinoid treatments that target acne will require a prescription because they contain retinoic acid, which is regulated as a drug in the United States, European Union, United Kingdom and Australia.

How is retinol used in skincare?

One of the most common claims about retinol is that it helps to reduce visible signs of ageing.

How does this work?

With age, the skin’s barrier becomes weaker, making it more prone to dryness, injury and irritation.

Retinol can help counteract this natural thinning by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes – cells that form the outer skin layer and protect against damage and water loss.

Retinol also stimulates the production of collagen (a key protein that creates a scaffolding that keeps skin firm and elastic) and fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen and support skin structure).

It also increases how fast the skin sheds old cells and replaces them with new ones.

Over time, these processes help reduce fine lines, fade dark spots and even out skin tone. It can also make skin appear clearer.

While effective, this doesn’t happen overnight.

You may have also heard about a “retinol purge” – a temporary flare of acne when you first start using topical retinoids.

Studies have found the skin may become irritated and acne temporarily worsen in some cases. But more research needs to be done to understand this link.

TikTok retinol purge.
The idea of a retinol purge is popular on social media. Image: TikTok

So, is retinol safe?

At typical skincare concentrations (0.1–0.3%), side effects tend to be mild.

Most people who experience irritation (such as redness, dryness, or peeling) when starting retinol are able to build tolerance over time. This process is often called “retinisation”.

However, retinol increases the skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation (known as photosensitivity). This heightened reactivity can lead to sunburn, irritation and an increased risk of hyperpigmentation (spots or patches of darker colour).

For this reason, daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF30 or higher) is strongly recommended while using retinol products.

Who should avoid retinol?

Teenagers and children generally don’t need retinol unless specifically prescribed by a doctor, for example, for acne treatment.

People with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema (dry, itchy and inflamed skin) and rosacea (chronic redness and sensitivity) may find retinol too irritating.

Using retinol products alongside other skincare treatments, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, can over-exfoliate your skin and damage it.

Importantly, the active form of retinol, retinoic acid, is teratogenic (meaning it can cause birth defects). Over-the-counter retinol products are also not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Choose and store retinol products wisely

Since retinol is classified as a cosmetic ingredient, companies are not required to disclose its concentration in their products.

The European Union is expected to introduce new regulations that will cap the concentration of retinol in cosmetic facial products to 0.3%.

These are precautionary measures aimed to limit exposure for vulnerable groups, such as pregnant women, given the risk of birth defects.

It’s therefore recommended to use products that clearly state the retinol concentration is between 0.1% and 0.3%.

Retinol is also a notoriously unstable molecule that degrades with exposure to air, light or heat.

Choosing a product with airtight, light-protective packaging will help with potential degradation problems that could lead to inactivity or harm.

What’s the safest way to try retinol?

The key is to go low and slow: a pea-sized amount of a low-concentration product (0.1%) once or twice a week, preferably at night (to avoid UV exposure), and then the frequency and concentration can be increased (to a maximum of 0.3%) as the skin adjusts.

Using a moisturiser after retinol helps to reduce dryness and irritation.

Wearing sunscreen every day is a must when using retinol to avoid the photosensitivity.

If you experience persistent redness, burning, or peeling, it’s better to stop using the product and consult your doctor or a dermatologist for personalised advice.The Conversation


Laurence Orlando, Senior Lecturer, Product Formulation and Development, Analytical Methods, Monash University; Zanfina Ademi, Professor of Health Economics, Monash University, and Zoe Porter, Lecturer, Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Science, Monash University

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

  • I had never really heard of retinol before. I must say though I have never really seen any benefit in anti-aging products before. I have trialled a few and they really don’t seem to do anything. I think aging is just something that happens naturally and we need to stop trying to fight it.


  • I love a good retinol product, but I find you need to be selective on what brand will work for you. Not all formulas are the same. For me, it’s the retinol serum from Go-To skincare. Every so often my skin will have sensitive moments, but I’ve never had an unpleasant reaction to this.


  • Any product that you buy over the counter will have little effect on your skin. I prefer to use prescription tretinoin that does work, but you must take it very slowly. Some people can’t tolerate it at all. It will make your skin peel and flake to start with but that does show it’s working.


  • I have tried a retinol product in the past but it worried me that there were limits on time use and the extra risk of sunburn when family members have had melanomeas. I just found it all a bit scary and the risks put me off. I think I’ll keep up what I’m doing and grow old gracefully.


  • After lots of research and price comparisons I purchased a retinal treatment from Paula’s Skincare and am planning to mix my current retinol with it to gradually increase the strength of retinol I am apply each night. Looking forward to the results over time! Thank you for the great info in this article.


  • I use retinal and started with a very low strength because my skin is sensitive. After feeling I threw out so many products and purchased an excspeptionally low strength. I never realised you should gradually increase the strength over time. This article was really helpful, thank you. I’d love tips on how to build tolerance safely while keeping my skin calm and hydrated.


  • Im still learning how to best incorporate retinol into my skincare routine without it causing havoc on my skin. It’s definitely a great product to use where you can see great benefits – but definitely learning how to use it, the strength etc is key in getting the balance right. Im starting slow!


  • This is not a product that I would use considering what the side effects could be. I have very sensitive skin and need to be very careful what I put on my skin, especially my face and this is not something I would ever consider. I think there are plenty of natural products out there that could work just as well.


  • I went to a skin care clinic which sold retinol and was basically told that it’s the best stuff for youthful skin. I was told you could pair it with a cheap $10 moisturiser, retinol does all the work. I purchased it and haven’t started using it yet. I actually thought it was prescribed for people with acne so was surprised to read it can flair it up.


  • I have used retinols and although I don’t have any negative reactions, I also don’t see any improvement in my skin. I have seen improvement with Vitamin C serums.


  • My skin can be reactive if it doesnt like a certain product. I have used products with retinol and so far have not had any issues with my skin. No matter what i always use a sunscreen so the use of retinol wouldnt change that for me as its an ingrained habit.


  • I have used retinol, even in stronger concentrations, and fortunately I have not had any adverse reactions. It’s important to stay out of the sun or use sun screen.


  • This sounds like I need to get on the Retinol band wagon. My skin care routine is simple, cleanse, tone, serum, face oil and moisturiser. I always forget sunscreen in the cooler months so I now use a moisturiser with SPF. Is there a specific Retinol out there that is preferred or just try various ones?


  • I love retinol! My skin has not looked better since I started using it. I find my skin texture is smoother and the tone is a lot more even than it has ever been. When I am consistent with it my make up seems to go on smoother as well!


  • I absolutely love retinol products and have seen great improvement in my skin in certain products. Really great to make note to not use when pregnant. I wish it were printed clearly and boldly on packaging so women don’t accidentally take it. I use it a few times a week, and avoid if I’ve had too much sun.


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